oh susanna...don't you cry for me...i've gone to louisiana....

New Orleans may be another place where one goes to prove or disprove what they know of it...rather than to experience it in an unbiased fashion. For me, it seemed synonymous with Mardi Gras beads, steam wheelers on the Mississippi, porches, alligators, above-ground cemetaries, plantations, tragic news reporting and a plethora of less-than-healthy food. And in fact, that was what we found...with a lot more friendly people, fleur de lis and history than expected.



The first time we strolled the French Market, Becca and I were revolted at the alligator heads and hands being sold. "Are they real?" "Why....of course!" We were told later that the alligators sold were raised on farms where only 15% are released into the wild. The remainder are sold for various uses. Becca's Turkish-language skills made her a friend buying a hat. Now a video of him dancing with his yellow-coined scarf would be you-tube-able!



Martha and Joshua took us to the acquarium which experienced heavy losses of fish during Katrina. This picture of the jelly fish turned out well. Becca was particularly amused by "Gulf of Mexico Sponsored By" sign!



Richard and Charlene took us to several plantations (Nottaway and Oak Alley pictured here). Ah the splendor! Seeing them in their day would have actually been interesting. Sadly documentation or discussion of the slaves living was missing from our tours. I'd enjoy a propoganda-less knowledge of such. We did witness several curious things relics though: voodoo kit, diaries of capable women running the plantations while their husbands and sons were off fighting the Civil War, loan documentation naming certain slaves as collateral, vampire kit, opium jar with darts, etc. And what of the futile task of keeping all the silver from tarnishing in Louisiana's humidity?



Alligators! Would you believe they're interested in hot dogs and marshmallows? We were told that Louisiana is losing the equivalent of 1 football field of wetlands per hour, so we're certain to hear more about these creatures! Another cause.



And then for the wars. Calvin took us to the New Orleans battlefield of the War of 1812. Trying to imagine 2,000 British dying here because news of the peace treaty had not reached the front lines seemed tragic. And then the WWII Museum. Fascinating. Yes. Perhaps we'll see rationing again one of these days?



Food. Oh my. A gastronomic paradise? Perhaps a list is in order: muffuletta sandwich, jambalaya with rabbit meat and andouille, biscuits, grits, chilly-topped omelette, seafood gumbo, po'boys, collard greens, crawfish, corn bread, red beans and rice, oysters on the halfshell, e'toufee, pecan pie, snow cones (nectar is by consensus the best flavor), bread pudding, beignets, chicory coffee...fried catfish, fried oysters, fried chicken, fried alligator bits, fried shrimp....no wonder the statistics on diabetes and heart disease are astounding!




Whether or not there is bias in the rebuilding progress or news reports of such, this is clear...there's a ways to go. Even if Brad Pitt's houses are going up in the 9th ward and many are returning, empty lots grace all affected neighborhoods. The sobering effect of people sharing their stories is only matched by viewing FEMA graffiti and remains of people's lives. And then to see people rebuilding? Proof that people are both resilient and risk-takers.



Good trip! And a great friend to travel with!