laos

To start with, let's clear up the "s" in "Laos" quandry. When using it as an adjective, I formerly used "Lao", though when saying the country, I said "Laos". After asking anyone who seemed credible and had the time to pay heed to this tediousness, I learned that there is no final "s" sound in the Lao language. Hence the "s" if we are to sound authentic is never used. Anyway...moving on. Laos is both primitive and challenging to travel in, though very rewarding and culturally rich! And before I forget, the French influence, if nothing else, left the country with good bread (something I didn't expect).

The lifeline of Laos is the Mekong River, which runs the length of the landlocked country. For this reason, it seemed fitting spend several days taking the Slow Boat to Louang Phrabang.

The slow boat is a long narrow barge-like vessel sitting low in the water, with a loud rattling diesel motor, a very capable captain and very hard wooden benches. In time most decide to ride as the locals do...on the floor. Chickens on the roof amused me!

The benefit of the slow boat is what you see: miles and miles of untouched terrain, water buffalo, fisherman and other locals traveling up or down to market (seemingly eggs, Beer Lao and some kind of dragon/lizard thing appear high on the list).

A stop on the river for the night taught me that the word "cockroach" sounds quite like "moo-moo". To give context: The guesthouse owner responding to my accidental shreak after electricity was shut off and I found one well-fed cockroach under my pillow by flashlight said: "good bug, Lao bug...moo-moo" repeatedly. Because that's of course what you do when someone doesn't understand your language, say the same words over again. Louder helps too :) Maybe it was the adrenaline from the moo-moo discovery or the amusing situation or maybe you had to be there.



Water time, inexpensive markets with little anyone else but a tourist would want, funny food (for example: water buffalo lap (spicy finely chopped meat served with rice), surprisingly cheap meals and lodging (maybe I'll move there if I don't find a job...smile) and endless hours to contemplate why my bug bites were weeping, describe my early days in Laos.



Though Louang Phrabang was cute (but over-touristed), I flew on to Ventianne to find Muriel and Melissa. Notably, Lao Airlines is on the State Department's list of airlines to avoid...it was just fine. One of the places we went was COPE, which is an organization providing over 1,000 prosthesis per year and other assistance free to victims of cluster bombs. Rocked my world. Laos, per capita, is the most bombed country in history because the North Vietnamese ran supply routes through Laos (including the Ho Chi Minh Trail), which American planes bombed thoroughly. About 1/4 of the cluster bombs dropped didn't explode. They are found daily by people foraging for food in the forest, farmers plowing their fields after the rains, children who take them apart, etc. On average 300 people are killed or maimed per year. Makes you think...especially when you see homemade prosthesis and pictures and stories of loved ones.




Other excursions were lighter...the beautiful bubble fish or coffee and truffles. I'm not sure of the origins here of putting condensed milk in the [double-strong] coffee, but it is infinitely better than it sounds...delicious in fact! The next time I will savor and appreciate coffee so completely and passionately will be Italy.



Another venture was to Carol Cassidy's Lao Textiles Workshop. Carol came to Laos in 1989 with the UN and discovered a "weavers paradise". She has combined the country's rich history of weaving with her designs and employs 40 weavers who were taught by their own mothers to weave. The contemporary woven art is beautiful, but some wall hangings take 4 months to complete. On the most complex designs only 2 centimeters are woven per day. Diligence and hard work.



Dining in these huts on the river was nice, though one gets full really quick after realizing there are kids watching for leftovers. My heart aches though I sadly admit that I am a product of my experience and have empathy but lack the basis to truly understand.

And then the market! I love these! Always makes one reconsider their personal standards of what defines "edible".

And for the finale in Ventiane, we saw some Lao folk dances and ate traditional Lao food. Sweet ladies. Special days. Unforgettable country.